This trip had been on my list for years. Paddling the Niagara Escarpment along the Bruce Peninsula National Park felt like a milestone — something I wanted to attempt only when I had the judgement and experience to stay out of trouble. Before sea kayaking became my life, I’d only explored the interior lakes. The coast was another world entirely.
Halfway Rock Point
The Bruce Peninsula is rugged and unforgiving. You don’t get second chances if you commit to the wrong line or push too far in the wrong conditions. Before the trip, I did what every cautious paddler does: combed through myccr.com, pored over satellite images, and mapped bailout options. Even with all that, the coastline still had surprises waiting for us.
Basecamp and Launch
We based our shuttle and staging at Lands End Park, where my family camped in the trailer while our group prepared for a 3-day, 2-night crossing from Tobermory toward Lion’s Head. The weather gave us an 8–10 knot headwind to start — noticeable, but not breaking. Manageable.
Our basecamp at Lands End
We launched with loaded boats and followed the flooded shoreline past the National Park’s information centre. The plan was simple: stay conservative, keep a steady pace, and route-find carefully into Dunk’s Bay for lunch.
Day 1 — Driftwood Cove Surprise
Paddling conversations are notorious for getting out of hand, and ours did. Somewhere between a joke and an argument about nothing important, we paddled right past Dunk’s Bay without noticing. Charts out — correction required.
We diverted into Driftwood Cove, and honestly, I’m glad we did. It’s a spectacular landing, carved by time and pressure, looking straight across at Overhang Point. A better stop than Dunk’s, busy as that beach tends to be.
View from Driftwood Cove
Google Maps had lied to us, though — what looked like white sand was actually tennis-ball-sized cobblestone. Landings took teamwork and patience. It wouldn’t be the last time the shoreline made us work for it.
High Dump — Night One
We continued south, eventually landing at High Dump — not Halfway Log Dump as I’d mistakenly written in the itinerary. A small but humbling reminder: always get a second set of eyes on plans.
The camping pads at High Dump
High Dump is classic Georgian Bay: steep shores of rounded stones, clear water, and an inland campsite tucked behind the trees. The features are surprisingly luxurious for backcountry — an outhouse, bear hang, and well-maintained pads. Backpackers wandered past, curious about our boats and the route.
That night delivered one of the best sunsets of my life, followed by a Milky Way so sharp it didn’t feel real.
Day 2 — Into the Escarpment
We packed early and threaded along the cliffs toward Wingfield Basin. This is the section that makes the Bruce famous: towering escarpment, dramatic rock shelves, and turquoise water that looks tropical until you dip a hand in.
Paddling through the rocks
Wingfield Basin is a gem — a pocket of calm behind the point that shelters the wreck of the Gargantua. We spent time exploring the basin, the lighthouse, and the shoreline before committing to the push toward Dyers Bay.
The wreck of the Gargantua
A Route Correction and a Hard Decision
We rounded Cabot Head expecting beaches — again trusting Google’s pale shoreline. But the coast was unforgiving: boulders, steep rock, and no realistic landing for loaded boats. The safe call would have been to angle toward Reed’s Dump; we continued toward Dyers Bay instead.
By 4 p.m., we reached Dyers Bay and had an honest conversation: pushing into the next stretch without a certain campsite was a bad idea. The group made the right choice — we landed, called our shuttle, and wrapped the trip early.
Cabot Head Lighthouse
Reflection
We didn’t complete the original plan, but this was a deeply rewarding trip. The coastline is demanding, stunning, and honest — it rewards preparation and humility. We explored new water, navigated challenges, made smart decisions, and stayed safe.
The escarpment views along the route
I’d paddle this route again in a heartbeat, with adjustments based on what we learned: better campsite planning, revised landing expectations, and a clearer understanding of how dynamic this coastline can be.
For anyone considering this trip: it’s a Level 2 journey at an absolute minimum, and conditions will decide whether that’s enough. Respect the coast, prepare well, and it will give you one of the best paddling experiences in Ontario.
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